From El Chaltén to Ushuaia: Hiking, Ice, Wind and Wonder in South America’s Deep South
There’s something surreal about standing in the middle of Patagonia. The silence, the scale, the rawness of it all. For me, this region wasn’t just a destination – it was a journey through some mind-blowing landscapes that until now I have only seen in New Zealand.
Over the course of a few unforgettable weeks, I explored Argentina and Chile’s southern tip: hiking around El Chaltén, witnessing the power of Perito Moreno glacier near El Calafate, trekking for four days in the National Park Torres del Paine, discovering in the cute town of Puerto Natales, and wrapping it all up with more trails and penguin encounters in Ushuaia – the “end of the world”.
El Chaltén – The Heart of Patagonia’s Hiking Culture
Mountain-Trails and Magic! My adventure kicked off in El Chaltén, Argentina’s self-declared hiking capital. Nestled beneath the jagged peaks of Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre, this little mountain town instantly feels like home for anyone who loves to lace up their boots and hit the trail.
My friend Nik and I spent 4 days in this cute mountain town. Each day we had a different trail planned: hiking to Laguna Torre, Laguna de los Tres and Glaciar Huemul with its Lago del Desierto.. Soaking in the changing light and shifting moods of the mountains. On clear mornings, the spires of Cerro Torre seem to pierce the sky, and Fitz Roy glows with the first rays of sun. Every step here feels both grounding and elevating. We kept Fitz Roy for the last day. I have to admit – it was a challenge… but so much worth it!
However, my personal highlight was Cerro Torre. Probably because it was my first one.. The weather was amazing and the beauty of the moment when you arrive at the top and lay eyes on the Glacier and its lagoon. Just WOW! It felt spiritual having my feet rested on a piece on a glacier.. So close to nature, you feel humble, peaceful and so happy that nothing else matters. You are so moved, so grateful that you just want to weep quietly. The only thoughts you have are: Life is amazing and the world is beautiful! A truly magical moment!
And the town itself? El Chaltén isn’t just a trailhead – it’s a whole vibe. A cozy little town of wooden chalets, gear shops, and snug cafés tucked into the valley beneath the Fitz Roy range. There’s a laid-back, mountain-outdoorsy atmosphere where muddy hiking boots and windburned smiles are part of the dress code. After a day on the trails, you’ll find fellow hikers in wooden chalet-style bars and barn-like restaurants, swapping stories over steaks and Malbec in rustic parrillas, or unwinding with craft beer and a view of the peaks they just climbed. It’s the kind of place where days start early, end with a toast, and every window frames a postcard. You could compare it to apres-ski but in a chilled way. I absolutely loved it there!
El Calafate – The Breathing Glacier
From El Chaltén, we made our way south to El Calafate, the gateway to Perito Moreno Glacier. Honestly, no photos can prepare you for the scale of it. Walls of ice rise 60 meters above the lake’s surface, groaning and cracking as if alive.
The experience at Perito Moreno Glacier is more structured than wild, but no less impressive. A network of well-maintained pasarelas (walkways and viewing platforms) lets you take in the glacier from multiple angles, close enough to hear it groan and crack as chunks of ice crash into the lake. I stood watching chunks of ice calve off into the turquoise waters below, each crash echoing across the valley. It was one of those moments that remind you how small we are…and how powerful nature is.
If you want to get even closer, you can join a boat tour that glides along the towering ice walls or go all in with a mini-trekking tour, where you strap on crampons and walk directly on the glacier itself. It’s surreal, unforgettable, and a total highlight of the region.
Torres del Paine – Four Days ‘In The Middle of Nowhere’
Next stop: Puerto Natales in Chile, the jumping-off point for one of Patagonia’s most famous treks. We headed there on the bus and spent a day discovering the town and preparing for the ‘wild’ to come…
Next day a bus took us to the Torres del Paine National Park where we boarded a ferry taking us across the lake Pehoé to Paine Grande – the starting point of the treks. We set off on the W Trek (there is also the O Trek for the more experienced hikers) through the National Park – a four-day hiking route that’s become a rite of passage for outdoor lovers.
From deep valleys to hanging glaciers, from the bright blues of Lake Pehoé to the dramatic granite towers that give the park its name – it’s a visual feast. Though as it is, it is absolutely worth it. I felt like I was in a setting of Lord of the Rings.
But hiking the W Trek isn’t just about the scenery, it’s also about the rhythm of trail life. Nights are spent in refugios – simple campsite setup with a cooking possibilities, bathrooms, sometimes a shop or a bar (at Paine Grande even a proper restaurant – pre-booking required! ). You sleep in tents with the soothing soundtrack of wind, rivers, rain, and sometimes just the deep quiet of the forest. There’s a beautiful simplicity to it all: peeling off muddy boots, warming up with lentil stew or pasta in a crowded dining hall, and sharing a bottle of wine or a flask of whisky with fellow hikers from all over the world. Tired muscles, glowing faces, and the communal feeling of having earned each day – it creates a special kind of joy you don’t easily forget. The final ascent to the base of Torres del Paine at sunrise was tough and even though we had no sun that day I am happy I challenged myself facing my fears of walking through a forest at night. There’s something magical about watching those peaks turn pink in the early light I guess… but I can assure you it felt almost equally primal being there under clouds. They produced a little drizzle adding to the mystical ambience. You just sit there surrounded by strangers who suddenly feel like friends and you don’t want to leave.
Puerto Natales – A Remote Hub with a Creative Soul
After so much nature I needed a bit of an urban-vibe. While my friend returned to the park for a kayaking adventure I was happy to have a chilled me-time wandering around this cute town.
Puerto Natales feels both remote and unexpectedly cosmopolitan – a windswept little town with an artsy, crafty vibe and a growing international outdoor crowd. Cosy cafés, Patagonia-themed murals, local gelato spots, and pubs serving craft beer brewed just down the road – it’s the kind of place where weathered backpacks and good coffee happily coexist.
The day unfolded just the way I love it – strolling around, sipping coffee, buying crafty souvenirs, chatting with locals, sharing stories, making friends and feeling ‘at home’ – even in a remote place like this one. To top off such a lovely day, I crossed paths with two fellow Polish women: Emilka, an outdoorsy, spiritual soul working in an artsy-esoteric shop, and Ewa, the elegant artist and gallerist who also happens to be part of my Valencia Erasmus family (though I didn’t know it at the time).
Ushuaia – The End of the World (and a New Beginning)
The final chapter took us all the way down to Ushuaia, the world’s southernmost city. We traveled down there by bus (again) which I highly recommend. It’s not only cheaper than flying, but also rewarding to watch the beautiful landscapes pass by your window. The buses are really comfy and half empty.
Tucked between mountains and sea, Ushuaia has a frontier feel. It’s windy, cold and has a rugged charm – part fishing port, part adventure hub – framed by snowy peaks and the Beagle Channel. The town is full of cosy cafés and seafood restaurants where hikers warm up over steaming bowls of seafood stew or share a plate of king crab after a day in the cold. It’s the last real stop before Antarctica and a gateway to countless excursions: penguin colonies, glacier hikes, boat tours, and windswept trails that feel like the edge of the world.
Here we hiked to the beautiful Laguna Esmeralda, its water a shade of green, and the Glacier Martial where we had to return mid-way because the snow was reaching until the knees, the slopes were slippery and there was a lavine danger. And of course – we didn’t have snow-hiking gear. But hey! No problem, we had our dose of adventure already and just finished the hike earlier while meeting interesting people over a drink and a Tango session in a wooden bar with a barn-charme.
One of my absolute highlights was a boat tour to the “Fin del Mundo”. We cruised down the Beagle Channel to the remote outer islands, passing weathered shipwrecks, rocky islets teeming with sea lions, and shorelines dotted with Magellanic penguins waddling like little tuxedoed locals. Just as we neared Penguin Island, the rain began to fall — yet even through the mist and drizzle, the moment felt electric. And to crown it, we caught a rare glimpse of a king penguin, tall and regal among its smaller cousins.
My most magical moment, though, came at the Faro Les Éclaireurs, the iconic lighthouse often called the “Lighthouse at the End of the World.” As we floated quietly past, with the wind in our faces and the Andes fading into the clouds behind us, it felt like time paused — and the world, in all its wild wonder, just stood still.
Ushuaia felt like the perfect ending of our Patagonia adventure: A place to breathe, to reflect and to let it all sink in.
Patagonia in a Word? Alive.
Patagonia isn’t just beautiful, it’s elemental! The wind carves your thoughts clean, the silence gets under your skin, and the landscapes stay with you long after you’ve left.
Whether you’re chasing glaciers, summiting peaks, or sitting quietly with a cup of mate, Patagonia has a way of making you feel more awake, more connected.. and somehow, more yourself. They say that whether it’s your first time here or your fifth, Patagonia always feels like a beginning. Well I shall come back then…
Further reading
Would you like some practical tips and tricks for planning your own adventure? Check out my next article:
