Art, culture and Salsa – Colombia’s art scene is as dynamic as its landscapes. Fine arts and performances in Medellín and Bogotá or Cali’s dance scene. If you are a creative soul, you will find something for yourself here. Let me introduce you to Colombia’s vibrant cities.
Bogotá – Immersing in Art and Culture
Someone I know told me ‘if you don’t land in/or depart from Bogotá, don’t even bother going. There is nothing to see and it’s dangerous’. Aparently a friend of a friend was stabbed on the street for his phone’. OMG, please don’t scare me. I want to see the city!
Yes indeed, I did have a ‘weird’ moment in Bogotá (see further down), but I still liked the vibe of the city and I’m happy that I went.
Bogotá’s Candelaria (downtown neighbourhood) is a cultural hotspot, filled with museums, galleries and street art. The Gold Museum (Museo del Oro) and the MAMU connected to the Botero Museum are essential visits, offering insights into Colombia’s pre-Columbian history and the works of renowned artist Fernando Botero. Nearby there is the Gabriel Garcia Cultural Center with very cool events – music, digital displays & light shows starting at sunset.
I also liked the Museo Nacional de Colombia. located between Chapinero and Candelaria. The streets just behind the museum are full of bars, restaurants and cute little artsy shops. I had lunch in the restaurant ‘la Niebla’ located at the Museo Nacional. Upscale but not expensive. The food was delicious! Explore the streets of La Macarena. Great vibe!
If you want a breather from the bustling capital, you can hike up to Monserrate (yes, it’s the same name as the one close to Barcelona) for panoramic views of the city. At the summit you enjoy views over the city and visit the Santuario, a church that has been a pilgrimage site since the 17th century. If you don’t fancy the steep 2 hour hike you can take the train (Funicular) or the cable car (Teleférico). At the top, you’ll find a few restaurants and stalls selling snacks.
Brunch, Coworking & Cocktails
For my stay I chose Chapinero (and I recommend you do too). My Airbnb was located in one of the student residences at Hippies Park. A lovely, modern little apartment with floor-to-ceiling windows. The area is bohemian-hipster but also studenty-alternative. And rainbow-coloured! Which I loved. The hillside of Chapinero (east of Carrera 7) offers plenty of chic bars. Good for both: brunch during the day (here you find coworking cafés where you can bring your laptop) and Cocktails in the evening.
Bogotá by bike
I was told not to take a local taxi in Bogota (the yellow one) but only Uber. Another scary statement. The last one is not really legal but tolerated and at least your whereabouts are recorded! Well..you can guess what I did? Exactly what I was advised not to do – got a yellow cab from Candelaria after dark (it’s not a good idea to even be there after nightfall) back to Chapinero. To my excuse: The sun goes down at 6pm – and it gets dark very quickly. By 7pm it’s ‘nightfall’ and shops and cafés start to close. The Botero Museum was open until then…
It was Saturday night and I couldn’t get an Uber! I tried for an hour – locating myself strategically either in a shop or next to the armed guard at the Gold Museum. But finally I had to give up and grab a cab. Instead of going through the city, the driver took the peripherique (at least we were moving into the right direction) and had the cabin light on. Apparently it’s safer when they do that but I wasn’t sure about that because my only thought was that my blond foreign head is visible from the outside and someone on a motorbike can approach with a gun and ask me ‘nicely’ for my phone. Luckily I got back home safely but swore to myself to only stick to Chapinero after dark from now on. So, that was my ‘weird’ moment.
Next day I got the city bike app and used the bikes to go everywhere. Bogotá streches in length and you can go up and down the Carrera 7 to reach all the neighbourhoods. There is a nice bike lane in the middle with bike stations alongside it. If you want to save money you can drop the bike in under 20 min and take the next trip on a different one. That way you don’t pay anything because the app is free for a 30 day trial period (I actually forgot to cancel it and paid a yearly fee of…11 eur. Oh well, I guess that’s ok ;)).
Once a week the citizens of Bogotá take back the streets of their city. Every Sunday, between 7am and 2pm, many of the biggest roads shut to cars and left open to bikes, skates and feet. It was cool to have my bike-app-option!
Craft Market & Shopping Area
On the said car free Sunday morning I directed my bike along Carrera 7 all the way up to Usaquén. There is Mercado de Pulgas – a flea / craft market that resembles the street markets of SouthEast Asia. You stroll, you eat and drink and you buy nice little handcrafted souvenirs. Lovely. Around it, there are coffee shops (good for brunch) and a park.
On the way down I passed by El Chicó – one of Bogotá’s most affluent areas, with a mix of luxury residences, corporate offices, embassies, and cultural sites. A residential area preferred by expats. There is a nice park (Parque de la 93) – a popular green space surrounded by restaurants, cafés, bars and shops. It’s a central gathering spot, hosting events, concerts, and cultural activities.
A bit south of El Chicó I parked my bike to explore the Zona T – a trendy, pedestrian-friendly area within the Zona Rosa district, famous for its vibrant nightlife, high-end shopping, and dining options. The area is full of luxury boutiques, designer stores, exclusive bars, nightclubs, and some of the best restaurants in Bogotá. I was not up for shopping but I enjoyed the ambience. I walked around the little streets, observed, took pictures. Then I cooled down at the shopping mall Andino, enjoying a gelato and the pre-christmas atmosphere: decorations and a choir singing under a huge christmas tree (it was end of November).
My Bogotá-Experience – Conclusion
Against my preconception, based on the opinions of fellow travellers, I really enjoyed Bogotá. Not so much Candelaria though, where I felt a bit like in India. Only I was not in India (you can read about my India-Adventure in one of my older articles). I enjoyed the art galleries on the way from Chapinero to Candelaria (on my first day I walked all the way down to get a good first impression of the city) and the cafás and bars on the Chapinero hillsite. I liked getting around by bike, liked my AirBnb and I spent a nice day with someone I met up in Palomino earlier on this trip. I’m happy I went to see the city with my own eyess and judge it (positively) myself.
Cali – Heath and Salsa
With its tropical savanna climate the city is warm year-round (it was hot in December when I was there) and I would say it’s not only because of the temperatures. Cali is the world capital of salsa! The city is home to numerous salsa schools, clubs, and events. Cali’s nightlife is lively, with countless bars, nightclubs, and salsa venues where you can dance the night away. La Topa Tolondra is one of the most popular salsa clubs in the city. I’m not a dance enthusiast myself but I enjoyed the rhythms of salsa just being on the streets.
San Antonio – Boho & Colonial
I booked my Airbnb in San Antonio – a boho and historic neighbourhood full of cafés and artisan shops. The area is safe, very relaxed during the day and vibrant at night. It offers great views of the city. I liked it here. It felt a bit like being in a little town. At my doorstep I had the hill of Parque de San Antonio, with its little chapel – a popular sunset-spot.
Unfortunately the two main tourist attractions were closed for renovation during my stay in Cali: Museo La Tertulia – a contemporary art museum and Cristo Rey – a large statue of Jesus Christ on a hill (similar to the one in Rio de Janeiro) with panoramic views of the city.
Historical Center
However there were other things to do. There is the city centre: Boulevard de Rio – a pedestrian walkway that runs along the banks of the Cali River. It has a park area with walk paths and green spaces full of public art installations, sculptures and murals. Along the boulevard you will find cafes, restaurants, and food stalls to experience local cuisine and street food. I took a walking city tour related to food. The guide also explained the stories behind the street art (such as the murals or the Trumpet Monument etc.), cultural spaces and historic places. I visited the Ermita Church and Plaza de Caicedo, the Museo de Oro and the Museo Archeologico and popped into all the other churches nestled between the streets of the historic centre.
Boulevard de Rio connects the historic charm of Cali’s city centre with a modern urban vibe. In the evening, the boulevard is beautifully lit, creating a cosy atmosphere. It has become a popular spot for evening strolls and nightlife. I was there in the beginning of the Christmas season, with Christmas lights displayed around the city centre, creating a lovely atmosphere. The lights follow a theme and include elaborate displays, nativity scenes, and festive decorations. The Lighting Ceremony itself was a crazy event with tons of people, music, performances, and other cultural activities. It was actually a bit claustrophobic but I decided to enjoy it (keeping my hand on my funny pack).
Last but not least – there is a beautiful Zoo in Cali. I’m not a fan of zoos. My free spirit can’t stand the idea of space limitation (or deprivation) but I heard the Cali zoo is exceptionally beautiful and considered one of the best zoos in Latin America. Indeed, I was impressed.
The park is divided into themed sections, which reflect the diverse ecosystems of Colombia. The animals (around 300 species, among them a large collection of native Colombian wildlife) live in environments that closely resemble their natural habitats. They have a lot of space and ‘seem’ happy. I personally loved the flamingos and the Mariposario (Butterfly House) with hundreds of colourful butterflies.
The space is really beautiful. Set in a lush, green area with beautiful landscaping, near to the Cali River and surrounded by the Andean foothills. I was there two hours before closing time and I loved the quiet atmosphere during the golden hour. Perfect!
My Cali-Experience: Conclusion
It was a nice stay. I strolled around San Antonio, talked to the locals, poked into vintage shops and sat around cafes and restaurants. I went to a yoga studio for some streching, had a nice massage, enjoyed the city food tour and my zoo visit. Maybe next time I go dancing : )
My fav’s – Food & Drinks etc.
Bogotá:
Chapinero:
- Brunch places: Cocodrilo Café Bar, Varietale Chapinero (good for work), Mistral (popular, french)
- Cotcails, iIne: Atlas Chipero
- Restaurants: Salvo Patria, Mesa Franca, Marsa 61, Salon Tropical
- Hippies Parc
Nord of Chapinero:
- Zona T & Zona Rosa, Tropicalia coffee, Parque de la 93
- Flea Market Usaquén & Colo Coffee Usaquén (brunch)
South of Chapinero:
- Museo Nacional de Colombia with restaurants: Niebla (French) & Wok (Asian)
- More restaurants: La Taperia (Tapas), Gaudi (Spanish), Anna & Otto (Pizza), La Monferrina (Italian)
- La Macarena: Carrera 4a: cute street with galleries, lovely shops and bistr
Candelaria:
- Gold Museum
- Placa Bolivar with Museo Santa Clara and Museo Colonia
- Museo de Arte Miguel Urrutia (MAMU) with Museo Botero
- Gabriel Garcia Márques Cultural Centre
- Restaurants: Madre, Padre
Cali:
San Antonio:
- Yoga & Spa (very nice massages!): Sukha
- Pulguero Coffee Shop: vintage shop, brunch & cocktails
- La Linterna: famous print shop
- JBerly art studio
- Food & drinks: Criollan Lovers (Ceviche & co), Cafe Casa Libro (food and books), Cumbre Masa Madre, La Bohème, El Huerto, Macondo (Art cafe), Nispero, Tierradentro, Zahavi
- Iglesia San Antonio – on a hill. Nice sunset spot
- Sala: La Topa Tolonga
- Park with view & souvenirs: Parque Artesanal Loma de la Cruz
El Peñon:
- Restaurants: Le Sucre Bistro (French – my absolute fav!), Madre, Sonoma, Lakasia
- Museo la Tertulia & Parque de los gatos
- Museo Caliwood (for movie fans)
Centro:
- Boulevard de Rio – with the parks and churches around it. Also Museo Arqueologico de la Merced & Caima Gold Museum
- Platoleta Jairo Varela with Salsa museum and huge trumpet statue & craft market
- If you need a shopping mall: Cente
Now, let’s visit Medellín & Cartagena…
In my related articles you can discover Colombia’s Nature and get practical Safety Tips.
